Moda avant garde: Walter van Beirendonck

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Desde los 80s hasta hoy, el belga más sauvage de la Royal Academy desafía a la ropa para chicos con cortes y colores antidepresivos, y comentarios muy cruciales también. Humor, sexualidad, sociedad y estado. Interview exclusiva.

Es raro. Lo decimos nosotros y lo dice él. O sea, esto no es menswear para tibios: es individualismo puro. No existe el tono neutro, el corte simplón. Son prendas que gritan que hay un ser humano metido ahí adentro. A Walter van Beirendonck, belga, egresado en 1980 de la Royal Academy, y parte elemental del Antwerp Six, el contingente con Dries van Noten y Ann Demeeulemester que llegó a London en 1987 para demoler percepciones de indumentaria, le importa todo un carajo, excepto lo que realmente importa. Mírenle la historia, desde su label solista, o su firma 90s, Wild and Lethal Trash, co-labs con Vogue Japan y Comme des Garçons, preocupaciones rabiosas sobre el fin del planeta Tierra, el sexo con condon. Su propia galería y store en Antwerp, que se llama como él, vestuarios para ballet y teatro. Ah, y los vestuarios para U2 en el tour Popmart, hace unos 12 años. Glow, su ultimo otoño-invierno, fue una celebración de la antiforma. Es decir, ¿dónde vieron un suéter de punto verde chillón sin mangas y con un escote hasta casi el ombligo? Y Wonder The Bear, su ultimo verano, fue con un montón de osos muy masculinos en pasarela. Eso es reírse un poco también.
-Tu última colección es de lo más divertido que vimos en años.
-Ah, ¡Wonder The Bear! ¡Muchas gracias! Quise divertirme un poco más esta vez, ser más sexual, principalmente en el show, en la puesta en escena, y en hacer una colección que me satisfaga totalmente, sin ceder un centímetro. Hay un comentario sobre las corporaciones también, es ver un poquito más allá de la iconografía.
-¿En qué sentido?
-Por ejemplo, Apple y su logo: ¡no están pensando en una manzana, precisamente! Creo que todavía hay espacio en la moda para decir y hacer cosas como estas. Sino, no tendría gracia.
-Tu menswear nunca fue convencional. Hay que tener un par de agallas para usarlo en público.
-Siempre disfruté diseñar para hombres desde el comienzo, hace no sé cuántos años. Me gusta intentar un cambio de fronteras. En muchas colecciones experimenté e investigué muchísimo, pero aún así, me importa terminar con un producto que puedas usar, que se vea bien, que genere un balance en el cuerpo de un hombre.
-Siempre se puede combinar.
-¡Claro! Podés usar una t-shirt, un sweater, unos jeans, pero también algo distinto para subrayar que hay un carácter aventurero en tus elecciones de ropa.
-1987, la época de Antwerp Six.
-Hace 23 años, y eramos muy jóvenes, inocentes. Dries, Anne, todos nosotros que íbamos a la Royal Academy, un período fabuloso. No teníamos ni idea de cómo conquistar el mundo de la moda, pero eramos ambiciosos, así que ibamos a hacerlo de todas formas. Queríamos salir de Bélgica. Fue una decision práctica, y tuvimos un montón de atención cuando montamos el show en Londres. Ahí la gente se dio cuenta.
-¿Qué tiene de especial la Academy?
-Es que es un lugar único. Te permiten cuatro años de estudio con tu propia vision, tu propia firma. Te guían profesores, lógicamente, pero con mucha individualidad, y los alumnos desarrollan su estilo propio. Diseñan sin miedo.
-Vamos con terminología. Cuerpo humano. ¿Qué te significa?
-¡Mucho! Es un elemento importantísimo, o sea, ¡lleva la ropa que hago! Quiero mostrarlo, acentuarlo, detallarlo. Si está, que se use.
-Color.
-Algo crucial, nunca le huí al color para expresarme en mis colecciones, para subrayar las formas, para que el arte funcione.
-¿Pop?
-No en el sentido tradicional en que se aplica. Creo que le da a mi trabajo una impronta más contemporánea, un optimismo y una alegría que me interesa reflejar.
-A veces es difícil creer que puedas operar en la misma jungla en que existen Chanel o Dior. El término moda es muy amplio.
-Es raro, ¡ja, ja, ja! Amo y odio al mundo de la moda al mismo tiempo, cuesta creerlo. Es decir, amo a la moda como un hecho de comunicación, crear ropa para contar historias a través de una serie de prendas. Eso siempre me interesó. Pero no puedo soportar la mentalidad superficial y asesina, copiona, sedienta de billetes, donde todo es rápido y fácil.
-Uno de los puntos altos de tu resumé es el vestuario para el tour Popmart de U2.
-¡Cierto! Trabajar con Bono y la banda fue fantástico. Tenía muchísimo respeto hacia mí y lo que aportaba, era algo muy estimulante. Esos trajes se veían bien. Y me gusta trabajar en otras cosas. Ya hice vestuarios para ballet y teatro, por ejemplo.
-¿Te quedan deudas todavía?
-Te digo una: algo para cine, ciencia ficción o fantasia. Te juro me encantaría.
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