Nuevo invierno de Rei Kawakubo, una de las visionarias supremas de la moda de todos los tiempos. Lo seguimos haciendo como los chicos.
A todos nos gusta Rei Kawakubo, fundadora, alma mater, propietaria única y mente máxima de Comme des Garçons desde 1969, sea en su store en Aoyama, Tokio, o en su local divino en la Place Vendome de París, sus teorías mentales para ropa también divina, sus discípulos como Junya Watanabe o Tao Kurihara, y su perfume unisex, “Man5”, que probablemente sea el más rico del mundo. Y la forma es un concepto constante en la mente de Kawakubo. Desarrollo, extensión, transformación son parte de los co-conceptos que florecen una vez más en su colección otoño-invierno 2010.En Comme des Garçons, nuevamente experimenta con los ideales del cuerpo y los cuestiona, rellenando faldas, chaquetas, pantalones con inflados paneles circulares, para generar prendas con sensación de comodidad acolchonada, casi una gran almohada diseñada al cuerpo. “Inside Decoration” es el nombre elegido por Kawakubo para esta colección. Generalmente el relleno se encuentra en el interior de la prenda: hoy sucede al revés. Esto no debería sorprendernos, es parte del juego que más le gusta jugar a esta japonesa genia. Y este invierno nos recuerda a aquel verano de 1997, ¨Lumps & Bumps¨, donde la marca también desafiaba las formas convencionales del cuerpo femenino de una manera más exagerada y vanguardista; esta vez nos propone algo semejante pero mucho más ready to wear. Negro, blanco y gris con acentos de rojos delimitan la paleta de esta colección con toques dramáticos que bien definen a esta diseñadora tan anti-moda en el sentido vetusto de la palabra y a quien tanto le gusta hacernos pensar. O hacerlo como los chicos.
TEXTO: Magalí Fischtein
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