Pesqueira: milagro osito

Accesorios muy mononos. Mente sintética y utilitaria. Montón de ositos y animales también. Big in Japan también. Entrevista con Valeria Pesqueira, el secreto mejor guardado de Palermo.

¿De dónde vienen todos estos animalitos?

¡Yo en realidad quería ser veterinaria! Pero desistí: a los animales los iba a ver más cerca de la muerte que otra cosa. Vivía en Adrogué de chica, así que tenía muchos a mano. Tienen textura, color. ¡Son textiles en sí mismos!

En tu local hay delantales, mitones, calendarios impresos en tela para la cocina. En moda o en diseño no es muy común pensar en el hogar.

Corro por el lado de lo funcional, de lo que usás a diario, de las cosas que necesito en mi propia cotidianeidad. No centro mis colecciones en una temática, no es los Granaderos, Napoleón o la Revolución Industrial. Es Pesqueira a secas.

¿Hay arrogancia en esa frase?

No es arrogancia, ¡es decisión! Y siempre el concepto fue la identidad, es un hecho que me copa. Formo a mi marca desde ese lugar.

La cartera osito fue un hit.

Y lo más difícil es salir del hit. Hice una reposición, y al osito lo convertí en bolso más que cartera.

Es muy cute todo, muy monono. Viene de la cultura Kawaii de Japón, que es muy amplia. Es desde Hello Kitty y Sailor Moon hasta Yoshitomo Nara.

Me crié a fines de los 70s, y todo era Sanrio, la corporación que hacía Hello Kitty. Era fan de Sanrio a muerte. Little Twin Stars fue lo primero que tuve, era divino, un sacapuntas con manivela, esos de colegio. También tenía un botiquín de My Melody, y un costurerito de Hello Kitty, regalo de mi abuela paterna. Cuando viajé a Japón por primera vez, septiembre de 2008, entendí por qué los japoneses tienen esa cultura: después de las bombas en Hiroshima y Nagasaki, quedaron freakeados con todo lo feo, y todo lo vuelven lindo. Hasta los carteles de señales en la calle tienen muñequitos. Y ese es un planteo muy Pesqueira: salir de la angustia, buscar la sonrisa. La ropa, los objetos, funcionan como fantasía de escape. Hay ciertas prendas que para una son un refugio. Los japoneses tienen muchísimos mecanismos para eso. Vi en un documental de Wim Wenders donde salen las maquinitas Pachinko, que son tragamonedas, la gente se encierra en los locales a jugar, y el ruido como que los separa, los hipnotiza, están tan concentrados que parecen que meditan. De nuevo, es un escape.

¿Qué tal estuvo la feria Rooms?

Estuvo buena, la verdad. Fui tres veces a Japón, dos a Rooms en Tokyo y una para ver clientes. Estamos en varios department stores, como United Arrows, Marble, WZ, HP France, y siempre es alucinante. No hay medianeras entre las casas, no está la pared que compartís con tu vecino, el espacio es delimitado. Pasás de un mega local a un templo zen sin luz ni color. La gente no tiene mascotas en la casa, ni un gatito, y hay cafés donde hay gatos, para que vayas y los acaricies. Además, tienen un tema con la obsesión que me copa. Dibujan caritas en la espuma del capuchino. Y por eso se copan con el diseño argentino: les parece exótico, relajado, ven que tu manera de vivir y pensar es sumamente diferente, y lo añoran. Por ahí pasa. Se fanatizan. Si les gusta una remera, se la compran en todos los colores posibles. Ves todo el rollo cosplay, las gothic lolitas, chicas vestidas de Sarah Kay o Frutillitas con novios super punk rock. Mucha cultura de producción.

Hay como una eterna búsqueda de la juventud en Pesqueira, o una negación a crecer.

Tal vez. Pesqueira tiene mucho que ver con recuerdos de mi infancia, me gusta tomar esas sensaciones, esas texturas que evocan recuerdos. Las clientas se trasladan a eso, pero no es un síndrome de Peter Pan.

También, a primera vista, parece todo muy feliz.

No te creas, eh. A ver, la cartera osito: ¿cómo tiene el osito sus ojos?

Tachados, o sea muertos.

¡Exacto! Coqueteo con lo dark. No soy del todo bright y buena onda. Algo hay. Aunque no pueden pedirme depresión. No me saldría.

¿Los argentinos nos abrimos finalmente al diseño? Siempre fuimos muy funcionales.

Creo que estamos enfocando las cosas desde otro ángulo. Hace diez años, todos mirábamos a Europa. Ahora, Europa mira para acá. Desde 2001, los que viajaban dejaron de viajar, y empezó a existir Palermo. Y lo que comprabas afuera, ahora lo comprás acá. Es el viejo axioma chino: ¡crisis es oportunidad!

No hablamos de tu colección de invierno todavía.

Ah, ¡cierto! ¿Qué decir? Bueno, la silueta es muy sixties. ¿Viste que siempre estuvo la pica entre mods y rockers?

Claro, un clásico.

Bueno, ¡yo elegí mod! ¡Ja, ja, ja! Volví a estudiar a André Courréges, un genio, que me encantaba en la facultad, ese sentido de retrofuturismo. Está bien ser un clásico.




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