La nueva colección de Chanel: superfabuloso

En París, Lagerfeld es más Lagerfeld que nunca para olvidarse de viejos fetiches y trazar el futuro excesivo que siempre quisimos ver.

Primavera-verano 2010 es Chanel en fase remix completamente, un Lagerfeld iluminado en flash electronico non-stop. Y a 55 años de haber aterrizado en París como aprendiz en Balmain, o 27 años de comandar el legado de mademoiselle Coco, Lagerfeld no tiene que responderle a nadie y muestra la version más imperial de sí mismo. Una mezcla equilibrada de romanticismo y era espacial, languidez y grandeza explícita. La paleta juega solamente entre los tonos pasteles y plata, y es la primera vez en toda la carrera de Lagerfeld donde no usa negro ni marino (¡tampoco hay un solo boton doré en toda su colección!). Para terminar de definir esta imagen, imposible dejar de lado las texturas, que son un triunfo Lagerfeld como de costumbre: sedas, gasas, encajes y puntillas cierran este look que aparenta una pesadez delicada, una caída blanda que cierra completamente con los accesorios propuestos. Moños, moños y más moños, peinados enormes y super elaborados y guantines plateados íconos del diseñador, que cada vez se referencia más a sí mismo. Por otro lado, obviamente el traje de tweed clásico reinventado esta vez como pollera pantalón, tipo short, haciéndolo ver más fresco y primaveral. Al cierre del desfile, una novia que reúne en un único traje 1300 horas de trabajo a mano, 800 metros de tul y un Lagerfeld recreado como novio en Baptiste Giabiconi, su model fetiche que trajo a Buenos Aires hace un tiempo, con full metal jacket pero en dorado, que suma a todo esto una cuota de glamour inmensa. Ah, Martin Scorsese va a filmar el comercial del próximo perfume de Chanel para chicos. Una rareza, ya que rara vez Chanel piensa en masculino. ¿Expectactiva? Of course.

TEXTO: Magalí Fischtein.



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