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El escenario: la sede del PCF (Partido Comunista Francés) en París, un edificio diseñado por Oscar Niemeyer en la década del ’70; el evento: la presentación de la colección SS2011 de Thom Browne.
Y es uno de esos diseñadores actuales que encarna sus diseños e inspiraciones, ya que su estilo es la mezcla del conservadurismo de las clases altas norteamericanas, la austeridad militar y los uniformes de colegios británicos. Es un hombre moderno que vuelve a la sastrería para el día a día, pero con una silueta innovadora. A él se le atribuye la salvación del traje, modificó y reinventó el conjunto masculino por excelencia. En una entrevista para New York Magazine en el 2006 él describe su filosofía para diseñar “Siento que un jean y una remera se han vuelto parte del establishment… Todos se visten informalmente, hoy ponerse una chaqueta es lo anti-establishment”.
Su último show estuvo lleno de referencias a la cultura estadounidense, él lo describe como un homenaje al estilo “preppy americano”. Con la bandera estadounidense en el hombro, un desfile de astronautas blancos abrió el show, recorrieron los pasillos de un edificio comunista francés que al arribar cada uno a sus puestos se quitaron el traje espacial y nos revelaron los diseños del Sr. Browne. Como bien afirma Tim Blanks de Style.com, este show es el más comercial que ha presentado el diseñador ya que logró un equilibrio entre lo audaz de sus colecciones anteriores y la practicidad que el hombre moderno necesita.
El traje de Thom Browne deja los tobillos y las muñecas expuestas en su totalidad, con zapatos sin medias y una corbata muy delgada. Para la próxima primavera propone un look más infantil pero con mucha lógica, bermudas en un traje de verano con medias altas, esta es su oferta para el hombre moderno en las temperaturas veraniegas de la ciudad.
Es la primera vez que muestra su propia marca en París, anteriormente ya lo ha hecho con su colaboración para Moncler Gamme Bleu de la cual sigue como Director Creativo. Otra de sus alienzas es la línea Black Fleece para Brook Brothers, una casa de trajes muy tradicional pero con los diseños de Browne se están reposicionando en el mercado.
En este show SS2011 conviven los opuestos: características infantiles en trajes para hombres y la revalorización de ideales “americanos” en un contexto brasileño-comunista; esta es la post-modernidad en todo su esplendor logrando mezclar pensamientos contrarios tan eficazmente. La estética austera, detallista e innovadora de Mr. Browne en la sede del PCF encajó perfecto con sus diseños.
La moda masculina necesita diseñadores así, que se atrevan a innovar en la tradición masculina y sacar el menswear del hueco en el que se ha estancado durante décadas, el futuro se ve muy prometedor para todos, especialmente si tenemos a Thom Browne piloteando la nave espacial que nos llevará hacia el más allá.
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