Germán Martitegui: entrevista

Casa Cruz, el restaurant con el que cambió las reglas de la gastronomía deluxe, Olsen para Buenos Aires o Madrid o Tegui, su creación definitiva. Habla el chef más innovador de la República.

TEXTO: Federico Fahsbender
FOTOS: Marcelo Setton / Thewowfactor

Casa Cruz: ¿qué representó para la gastronomía en Buenos Aires? ¿Cuál fue y es la novedad, el breakthrough que implica e implicó?
Casa Cruz representó la union de lo gourmet con lo chic, una formula que parece tan simple y que hasta ese momento no se habia unido en la ciudad. Fue atmósfera, música y servicio puestos en un mismo plano sin competir, y eso atrajo a un público ecléctico en edades y estilos pero con la misma necesidad: divertirse sin comer mal, comer bien sin aburrirse.

Tus platos siempre reinterpretaron moldes clásicos para ingredientes algo inusuales. Raviol de conejo, helado de eucaliptus.
¿Hubo que instruír al comensal para que se acostumbre? ¿De que podía haber conejo en un raviol?

Me gusta crear sin barreras de precio o de clase. Privilegio el sabor ante todo y me da lo mismo que sea foie gras u ossobuco, o mejor aún, foie gras con ossobuco. Esa transgresión me permite valorar el elemento emocional que tiene la comida desde la infancia y trasladarlo con técnicas modernas a la realidad actual. Creo que hoy se entiende más lo que hago que hace unos años. Hay gente que me dice que come mejor en Casa Cruz hoy que al principio y no sé qué contestar. Cualquiera de las dos respuestas nos gusta. O estamos cocinando mejor o ahora entienden más lo que hacemos.

Con la alta gastronomía, por así decirlo, ¿qué se pierde de la experiencia de sentarse a comer? Uno suele escuchar: “Muy lindo, muy vistoso, pero me quedé con hambre.”
La comida tiene que ser rica antes que nada. Hay dos experiencias posible al salir a comer. Una involucra prestar 100 por ciento de atención en la comida en una sucesion de 20 platos pequeños por un lapso de dos horas. La segunda, y la que yo promuevo, involucra más factores como la compañía, el lugar, la música, el servicio y se define como pasar un buen momento. La comida es una parte más dentro de la experiencia de la salida. La única diferencia es que no hay decoracion ni música que valga si la comida es mala. Y en cuanto a quedarte con hambre, creo que hay un limite muy difícil de lograr entre quedarse con hambre y quedar que explotás, que es bastante subjetivo. Salir de un restaurante habiendo comido demasiado no es una buena experiencia para nada. Y creer que porque el plato es caro tiene que ser abundante tampoco es muy acertado.

Tu tiempo en Francia cuando empezaste: ¿cómo fue? Es un viaje iniciático para cualquier chef.
No se puede ser un buen cocinero si te salteás las bases de la cocina, hay que pasar por todos los sectores y saber hacer de todo. Francia es el lugar que sin duda representa a la profesion del chef mejor que ningún otro. Muchas veces me da la sensacion de que aquí en Argentina nos salteamos etapas en las carreras y se llega a cacique sin haber sido indio. Los cocineros en Francia trabajan 18 horas por día con una gran exigencia y para llegar a chef tardás como mínimo diez años. Lo mismo pasa en Japón con un sushiman.

Tegui es tu fiel reflejo. ¿Cómo resultó? ¿Hace bien al ego tener un restaurant que se llame como vos?
Fue la primera idea de restaurante que tuve pero concretada 20 años despues, quizá por eso se merecía por lo menos la mitad de mi nombre. Está escondido, que es lo que más me divierte de todo y hay que vivirlo, no se puede contar. Estoy muy feliz con Tegui y con todo lo que pasa adentro, tanto con la gente que trabaja conmigo como con los clientes.

Los chicos que trabajan para vos en tus cocinas, ¿cómo te miran? ¿Cómo es el nexo?
Me gusta tener una relación bastante cercana con la gente con la que trabajo, los chefs de mis cuatro restaurantes trabajan conmigo hace mas de cinco años. Antes era más divertido porque pasaba más horas en la cocina, eso te hace mas humano para los demas, el paso a chef empresario te aleja un poco de los fuegos y de la gente. Esa es la parte que menos me gusta.

Vos también pelaste papa.
Totalmente. Fui cocinero raso y nadie me regaló nada. Soy muy exigente y muy poco conformista. Los que sobreviven a eso mantienen una relación muy buena conmigo por mucho tiempo.

Hoy, ¿cómo es tu educación? Viajaste por todo el mundo, abriste varios restaurants, trabajaste en varias cocinas, pero nunca se deja de aprender e incorporar, calculo.
Viajé mucho , trabajé con mucha gente y trato de ver todo lo que se hace. Durante muchos años fui muy influenciado por modas, tendencias y técnicas. Hoy valoro mucho lo que sale de mí y de mis equipos, lo siento más auténtico. Hay un momento donde se procesa todo lo que viste y sale algo tuyo, ahora me siento en esa situación.

Peor incendio de comensales, y cómo fue apagarlo.
Un día en José Ignacio, Uruguay, salí con los cocineros el 31 de diciembre a la noche, me quedé dormido y al día siguiente tenía más de cien personas para almorzar. Trabajaba para Francis Mallmann en el Guess Beachstore y veía su cara sin poder creer lo que pasaba. Fue el peor dia de mi carrera, horrible.

¿Y el mejor elogio?
No creo mucho en los elogios, honestamente. Sí en las caras de la gente cuando come y lo que eso me trasmite.

Una vez dijiste en un reportaje que no te caía bien que la gente que más aprecia este tipo de platos no puede pagarlos. ¿Ves posible bajar la escala de precios?
Me molesta que mi trabajo no sea accesible a mucha gente. No me regodeo en cobrar mucho por lo que hago ni por pertenecer al llamado mercado del lujo. Trato de cobrar lo menos posible por la que hago pero igual queda fuera de la escala de gasto de mucha gente. Artistas y gente joven son las primeras victimas en este sistema.

Una de las cosas más peculiares de Casa Cruz es que está casi enfrente del Club Eros, el bodegón tradicional de Palermo, de bife de costilla y ensalada completa. ¿Qué tomás de esa tradición, de esa otra vereda?
Solo fui una vez al Eros, no sé si me identifico con eso, pero no es de snob. Hay una parte como futbolera y de club que no formó parte de mi infancia. Me emociono más con una suprema Maryland y un panqueque de manzana que con un bife.

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  199. However one seemingly simple yet relatively deep and complicated question has always bothered me: when does localization cross the line of censorship? And to what degree should this sort of censorship be tolerated?

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  210. But these facts raise an important questions: when does the “localization” of content stop being “localization” and turn into full-on “censorship”? Aren’t these changes killing some of the game’s fun?

    I assume that someone purchasing the third installment in a game series would normally have a pretty good idea as to what kind of content they were getting into, especially with a series such as Yakuza, which is relatively well-known. The games even receive ratings similar to films, giving the consumer an even better idea of what the game in question contains.

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