Bar Isabel: entrevista con Juan Santa Cruz

Inspirado en su propia abuela, con charme animal y un clasicismo fascinante, Juan Santa Cruz crea Bar Isabel con carta de Tato Giovannoni e isabelinas en vez de efectivo. Así da gusto. Juan explica por qué.

¿Qué experiencia creás con Bar Isabel? A la vista, los bartenders están impecables, no te van a mentir en la coctelera, te van a atender regio y vas a tomar un trago rico.
Isabel fue pensado como un bar world class, brindándole al cliente una experiencia sensorial de satisfacción completa, ya que todos los detalles los concebí y diseñé especialmente para ese efecto: la ambientación, la iluminación, el mobiliario, la cristalería, los tragos, el servicio, la selección de la música, la vajilla, la acústica, los uniformes del personal, etcétera.

¿Y la carta diseñada por Tato? ¿Qué buscaron montar? ¿Cuál es el perfil de bebida?
Buscamos rescatar los mejores tragos de la historia, armando así una extensa carta de clásicos de la coctelería. De ahí que hay tragos que datan de fines del siglo XIX, como el Suffering Bastard, hasta otros de mediados del siglo pasado, como el Manhattan, el Sidecar, o el Tom Collins. Hay solamente dos tragos de autor: el Cruz 3.0, que es vodka, maracuyá, frutos rojos más un par de ingredientes secretos), creado por Tato, y el Reina Isabel, champagne on the rocks, dash de Campari más dash de creme de cassis y slice de naranja, creado por mí.

¿Deco y ambientación?
La ambientación y decoración es cinco estrellas rockeadas, algo elegante y transgresor, como las mesas de ébano y caoba con tachas de bronce y cromo. El techo de luces lo tenía en la cabeza como un pendiente desde que lo vi por primera vez en el Whitney Museum of American Art diseñado por el arquitecto de la Bauhaus Marcel Breuer, a cuatro cuadras de mi casa en New York City.

Isabelinas en vez de billetes. ¿Qué lográs desmaterializando el dinero, o reconvirtiéndolo?
Evitar el manejo del dinero en el salón principal, que es sucio y poco elegante. El efectivo real sólo se puede usar para dejar propinas.

El concepto “lujo” todavía aliena a la gente, en cierto punto, como que todo el set-up les impide disfrutar de saborear algo rico en un lindo lugar, se tensan o lo sobreintelectualizan. ¿Sentís que pasa? ¿Y por qué pasa?
Para mí “lujo” es disfrutar cosas buenas, bien hechas, servidas o entregadas con buena onda, que es lo que tratamos de hacer todos las noches en Isabel. No veo como a alguien le pueda incomodar, especialmente cuando el “lujo” de Isabel cuesta lo mismo que un trago o servicio similar en muchos otros lugares menos bonitos y con peor servicio, comida o tragos. Justamente lo que quiero es llevar el lujo a todos: con sólo un par de isabelinas se puede disfrutar de un trago delicioso en uno de los lugares más lindos de la ciudad, escuchando música preciosa rodeado de gente buena onda.

¿Y Casa Cruz?
Casa Cruz fue mi primera incursión en el mundo de los servicios de lujo y el primer restaurante de su clase en el país. Diseñarlo, construírlo, abrirlo en el 2004 y verlo crecer, fue una de las experiencias más gratificantes que he tenido. Rápidamente se convirtió en un ícono de Buenos Aires, conocido en todo el mundo, y premiado desde por Condé Nast Traveler hasta The Economist.

Una sencilla: ¿qué inspiró Bar Isabel?
La elegancia y el joie de vivre de mi abuela, Isabel Budge de Ferari, sumado a mi concepto de lo que debería ser el bar ideal en Buenos Aires entre los años 2010 y 2020. Esa es la idea.

FOTO DE JUAN: Urko Suaya

374 Comments

  1. Silvia Iannamico

    Buena nota, pero -siempre hay un pero- yo hubiera agregado algo que, a mi juicio, es el quid de la cuestión.
    En Juan Santa Cruz, a la hora de fundir experiencias sensoriales y espirituales, coexisten y colaboran ego y alter ego como entidad única y omnipresente para formar lo que los griegos definen como psy•kjḗ (alma). Entre ellos Platón, hilando más fino, menciona dos almas: una inmortal y divina, y otra mortal.
    Y es aquí donde me parece que Juan Santa Cruz se luce: conjuga ambas almas y pone al alcance del resto de los mortales una experiencia que trasciende lo material, que se eleva y los eleva, en definitiva, que les permite jugar a sentirse lo que en realidad son, esto es, únicos e irrepetibles como fueron creados.
    Casa Cruz e Isabel tienen el sello de las crías deseadas y bien concebidas. Se adivina el acto de amor de aquella concepción. Y puedo asegurar, sin temor a equivocarme, que ninguna de las dos podría ser lo mismo sin Juan Santa Cruz custodiando su crecimiento

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  6. MARIA LACROIX

    Excelente articulo y muy bien captada la esencia del Bar Isabel, que es justamente ese algo mágico que le da el genio de su creador Juan Santa Cruz, capaz de generar espacios de ensoñacion fascinantes,inspiradores e irrepetibles. Es ese mismo sello el que le dio a su primera gran creacion -Casa Cruz- la notoriedad y el atractivo irresistible que hoy se transfieren a Isabel. El comentario de Silvia Iannamico lo comprende y aprecia en su justo valor. Bravo!

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